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 Fertilization
is the activity that causes the most concern for conscientious homeowners.
Selecting the best packaged fertilizer based on price and composition is a
daunting task because of the wide variety of available choices. We should
do better than just follow rough generalizations such as "add more
nitrogen to make the top greener and more potassium to make the roots
grow" or even "apply fertilizer at a rate to give one pound of nitrogen
per 1000 square feet of lawn".
Fertilizers are labeled with three numbers representing amounts of the
three major nutrients: nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). A
fertilizer labeled 15-5-10 includes 15 weight percent N, 5 weight percent
P, and 10 weight percent K. Note that the ratio of N-P-K in this example
fertilizer is 3-1-2. The remaining 70 weight percent can be other
ingredients such as iron, sulfur, weed killers, insect pest killers,
fungicides, and inert fillers. The inert fillers are frequently salts that
can build up in the lawn.
Too much nitrogen (N) makes the grass green but also causes leaves to
grow fast, thereby requiring excess mowing and watering. Too much
phosphorus (P) can tie up the iron in the soil, causing the grass to turn
yellow even when nitrogen is adequate. The less expensive fertilizers have
a very water-soluble form of nitrogen that is released immediately to the
grass, causing it to be consumed rapidly and/or lost in run-off. Some more
expensive fertilizers have the nitrogen chemically modified so it is
released slowly to the plants. This can result in the grass remaining
suitably green with less mowing, less watering, and less frequent
additions of fertilizer. This also results in less build-up of salts in
the lawn and less run-off of nutrients into the environment beyond the
lawn. These advantages can make the initial high cost worthwhile.
Consider buying package lawn fertilizer with at least 50% of the nitrogen
in slow-release form and applying it at a rate based on guidance from a
nurseryman familiar with your neighborhood or, even better, based on a
soil test.
Weeds Removal
Mechanical/Physical Removal
This is almost never a solution in itself, but mechanical removal can
reduce the mass of weeds you need to treat, reduce further seeding if done
at flowering and may provide easier access to the area for future
treatment. Consider chainsaws, brush cutters, tractor slashers and mowers
but be sure to minimize soil disturbance and wash down machinery after
treatment of an area and prior to leaving the site. In addition some weeds
may be effectively grazed by stock, especially goats and some breeds of
sheep. Always consider native plants and animal habitat, and seek advice
first.
Hand-pull
Hand-pulling is a relatively gentle control method for
seedlings, herbs and grasses. Hand-pulling is best carried out when the soil is
damp, when the root systems are more easily dislodged and less damage is
done to the soil structure. A number of weeds can be easily hand-weeded from the
bush, particularly young plants that have not developed an extensive
root system. This method of control can be very effective when
dealing with small populations of environmental weeds, including
boneseed, broom, sweet pittosporum, and many other woody and grassy
weeds.Dig-out
Dig out plants with tougher root systems:
1. Insert a long knife or narrow trowel into the soil outside the root
system.
2. Gently loosen the soil, work around the roots and then
work the plant out gently.
3. Plants without seed that will not resprout can be left
to rot. Otherwise, bag all weeds, cover your load and take to
the tip.
Cut & Paint
1. The cut and paint method is the best technique for large or woody
weeds.
2. Contact PWS or DPIW for advice first.
3. Cut all stems as close to the ground as possible. A horizontal
cut prevents runoff of poison.
4. Apply herbicide to the cut stems within 20-30 seconds.
5. For creepers, climbers and some other woody plants it is possible to
scrape the woody stem and paint with herbicide.
Call Carmon's Today! 770-977-8620
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