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Fertilization is the activity that causes the most concern for conscientious homeowners. Selecting the best packaged fertilizer based on price and composition is a daunting task because of the wide variety of available choices. We should do better than just follow rough generalizations such as "add more nitrogen to make the top greener and more potassium to make the roots grow" or even "apply fertilizer at a rate to give one pound of nitrogen per 1000 square feet of lawn".

Fertilizers are labeled with three numbers representing amounts of the three major nutrients: nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). A fertilizer labeled 15-5-10 includes 15 weight percent N, 5 weight percent P, and 10 weight percent K. Note that the ratio of N-P-K in this example fertilizer is 3-1-2. The remaining 70 weight percent can be other ingredients such as iron, sulfur, weed killers, insect pest killers, fungicides, and inert fillers. The inert fillers are frequently salts that can build up in the lawn.

Too much nitrogen (N) makes the grass green but also causes leaves to grow fast, thereby requiring excess mowing and watering. Too much phosphorus (P) can tie up the iron in the soil, causing the grass to turn yellow even when nitrogen is adequate. The less expensive fertilizers have a very water-soluble form of nitrogen that is released immediately to the grass, causing it to be consumed rapidly and/or lost in run-off. Some more expensive fertilizers have the nitrogen chemically modified so it is released slowly to the plants. This can result in the grass remaining suitably green with less mowing, less watering, and less frequent additions of fertilizer. This also results in less build-up of salts in the lawn and less run-off of nutrients into the environment beyond the lawn. These advantages can make the initial high cost worthwhile.

Consider buying package lawn fertilizer with at least 50% of the nitrogen in slow-release form and applying it at a rate based on guidance from a nurseryman familiar with your neighborhood or, even better, based on a soil test.

Weeds Removal

Mechanical/Physical Removal

This is almost never a solution in itself, but mechanical removal can reduce the mass of weeds you need to treat, reduce further seeding if done at flowering and may provide easier access to the area for future treatment. Consider chainsaws, brush cutters, tractor slashers and mowers but be sure to minimize soil disturbance and wash down machinery after treatment of an area and prior to leaving the site. In addition some weeds may be effectively grazed by stock, especially goats and some breeds of sheep. Always consider native plants and animal habitat, and seek advice first.

Hand-pull

Hand-pulling is a relatively gentle control method for seedlings, herbs and grasses. Hand-pulling is best carried out when the soil is damp, when the root systems are more easily dislodged and less damage is done to the soil structure. A number of weeds can be easily hand-weeded from the bush, particularly young plants that have not developed an extensive root system. This method of control can be very effective when dealing with small populations of environmental weeds, including boneseed, broom, sweet pittosporum, and many other woody and grassy weeds.

Dig-out

Dig out plants with tougher root systems:
1. Insert a long knife or narrow trowel into the soil outside the root system.
2. Gently loosen the soil, work around the roots and then work the plant out gently.
3. Plants without seed that will not resprout can be left to rot. Otherwise, bag all weeds, cover your load and take to the tip.

Cut & Paint
1. The cut and paint method is the best technique for large or woody weeds.
2. Contact PWS or DPIW for advice first.
3. Cut all stems as close to the ground as possible. A horizontal cut prevents runoff of poison.
4. Apply herbicide to the cut stems within 20-30 seconds.
5. For creepers, climbers and some other woody plants it is possible to scrape the woody stem and paint with herbicide.

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